Japan is a nation with a long history. Since Japan’s modernization, this history has generally been divided into eras, named for the presiding emperor of those years. Perhaps the most famous of these eras to foreigners is the Meiji era (1868-1912) when Japan transformed itself from an isolated feudal society to a state that could compete with the more entrenched Western powers. However, the true start of Japan’s modernization begins in the Taisho era (1912-1926).

These pivotal years saw the peak of early Japanese democracy as well as the first truly global Japan, where foreign influences freely intermingled with local, domestic wonts and thoughts. Fortunately for the culinary history-minded, several restaurants from that era persist, leaving visitors free to experience the unique atmosphere and flavors that used to be common over a century ago. As such, to accommodate those with such a fancy, here are our 5 recommendations for authentically Taisho restaurants!

Asakusa Oden Otafuku(1915)

Only a short walk from Asakusa Station, this restaurant proudly advertises how it has sold the same oden that it did generations ago! For those who don’t know, oden is a term for an assortment of street foods, simmered in a hot soy sauce broth, making it the perfect thing to eat on a cold, winter day, though this restaurant is open year-round! Not only that, but there are many different kinds of oden, allowing anyone to find a type of oden that they like! Fish cake, daikon, tofu, sausage, you name it! There’s something for everyone with oden!

With nearly 50 different kinds of oden sold, Otafuku doesn’t disappoint in that regard. But it’s not just oden here – there’s also beef, fish, and a variety of different alcohols for you to enjoy over the course of your meal. I recommend the fukubukuro. One, because the name fits with that of the restaurant. Two, because the pleasant chewiness of the mochi within the tofu bag is brought by the savory dashi broth! But really, you can’t go wrong with anything here! If you’re lost, just order an assortment of different oden! I’m sure you’ll like it!

東京ー浅草おでん大多福ー

東京浅草の地で営業を始め100年以上続く老舗おでん屋です。カウンター席、テーブル席、個室ご用意しております。おでんネタは常時30種以上揃えております。

otafuku.ne.jp

Kinjouan(1919)

Soba, or buckwheat noodles, is the less-known, but just as delicious cousin of ramen and udon. With a flavor commonly described as “earthy” or “nutty”, soba is often thought to be the healthiest of Japan’s three noodle types, due to its lower calories and health benefits. With a broth rich in umami, soba can be topped with a diverse range of sides like tempura, grated daikon, or whatever the eater fancies. The best part – it can be enjoyed both hot and cold, making it suitable year-round!

Of course, that’s not the only reason you come here – you also come here for the delicious katsu (pork cutlet) rice bowl! Advertising it as their specialty, the meal sets where it comes with soba are very popular with students from nearby Waseda University, for their good blend of essential food groups! Personally, I’m a big fan of how they prepare the egg on the cutlet. The sweet aroma is pleasing, and once the cutlet enters your mouth, the firm texture and toothsome tang of the pork leave you wanting more.

金城庵 本館 (早稲田（都電）/そば)

★★★☆☆3.46 ■予算(夜):￥1,000～￥1,999

tabelog.com

Shinsuke(1924)

We’re not sure how familiar you are with Japanese pub culture, but you should be sure not to miss out. Japanese pubs, or izakaya, are popular among the working class of this country, and even if you don’t drink, you’re sure to find something you like, thanks to the variety of foods they usually offer. Fish, tofu, chicken, and more leave your options wide and your palate delighted!

Shinsuke, in particular, is widely recommended to tourists due to its long history and great reputation. After all, it is considered one of the Three Great Izakaya of Tokyo, along with Kagiya (Uguisudani) and Edoichi (Otsuka). And live up to its reputatio,n it does as Shinsuke’s menu offers a plethora of items, all as sumptuous as the rest. My recommendation is the “Kitsune (Fox) Raclette,” which has an impactful flavor that serves as a nice counterpart to sake. The sesame sauce pumpkin is also very nice, the innate sweetness of the pumpkin coming into its own thanks to the sauce.

トップ（おしらせ） | 湯島シンスケ

湯島天神下にある酒場「シンスケ」の公式サイト。

www.shinsuketokyo.com

Lohmeyer(1925)

The Taisho Era was the first time a lot of foreign ideas and foods came to Japan. Sure, Japan began to embrace them in the late Meiji, but it was during the Taisho Era when things hit a fever pitch. Even eating meat, as ubiquitous as it is today, was seen as a relative novelty, having only become widespread a single generation before. It was in these times that a certain August Lohmeyer first began the popularization of sausages and then established the first German restaurant in all of Japan.

Turning 100 this year, this cozy little restaurant is where the modern meat manufacturer got its start, and boy, does it impress. The menu features a variety of distinctly Western dishes that will make you question if you’re really in Japan at all, and all of them are wonderful and worthy of trying. Of course, we can’t help but mention the signature roast beef. It’s simply to die for, the succulent flesh making one feel guilty for how good it is. However, my recommendation is the chef’s hand-kneaded hamburger steak – you can have it plain or with a selection of sauces, and the texture is that which renders it both easy to eat and charming. Wash it all down with a nice German beer and you’ll see how the Japanese got hooked.

ローマイヤレストラン 銀座店

銀座エリアのローストビーフ×ビール、ローマイヤレストラン 銀座店のオフィシャルページです。お店の基本情報やおすすめの「 アンガス牛ローストビーフ（米国産 又は 豪州産）」「シュバイネハクセと季節野菜のロースト」「お肉屋さんの牛ホホ煮込みラザ...

lohmeyer-ginza.gorp.jp

Manpuku(1929)

So, technically, this restaurant opened AFTER the Taisho Era ended. However, before becoming a restaurant, the first-generation owners started serving ramen from a food cart sometime during the early to mid-1920s, so we decided to allow it as it still uses the original recipe that would have been used before the Showa Era began. And what better to introduce than a place that has been making ramen since before ramen was even a thing?

Traditionally, it is thought that ramen was brought to Japan by Chinese immigrants. Hence, we have the synonym, “Chuuka Soba“, or Chinese Soba, though the term is only used these days by restaurants that want to emphasize that Chinese connection. Of course, since we’re on the subject, we recommend ordering a bowl for yourself. The shoyu broth is classically mild, which makes it refreshing. The noodles, being bouncy and of fine quality, also add to the experience. As you finish your bowl, you’ll definitely fall in love with the chashu and egg omelet, which both contrast with the broth’s simple taste.

Manpuku - Higashi Ginza/Chinese | Tabelog

Check out Manpuku/まんぷく (Higashi Ginza/Chinese、Ramen、Dumplings) on Tabelog! Discover Japanese restaurants featuring detai...

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Conclusion

Closed for hundreds of years, when Japan finally opened its borders, the impact of foreigners was sure to leave an impact! Though the Meiji Era is where their influence began, it was during the Taisho Era when foreign ideas began intermingling with domestic ones, leaving many Japanese chefs to figure out how best to take advantage of the situation. Some combined East and West. Others embraced only one or the other.

Yet, all the same, these brave establishments helped usher Japan into the 20th Century, leaving us with the modern culinary tradition that is so recognized today. Though several of them have closed down since, of the few that remain, guests will understand why they were popular when they started and why they remain popular to this day. Of those remaining, here are our picks and we’re sure your taste buds will thank you as they travel in time to the Japan of 100 years ago!